From North to South

Amy's ramblings. Once upon a time these ramblings pertained to my 5 months in Guatemala and Honduras. Then they followed the ebb and flow of my final semester in Alaska. From there things really went south ... to Argentina, Bolivia and Chile. After 8 months in the Andes, I fell back under Alaska's spell … working at a newspaper and wandering mountains. Now I'm somewhat south again ... in Jackson Hole, WY, teaching ski school on the clock and making fresh tracks off the clock.

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Location: Alaska, United States

I've come to realize that if you have faith in the world, the world will show you amazing and beautiful people, places and things

Monday, March 28, 2011

Heavenly powder

Yesterday Cory I skied what we deemed to be our best powder day of the season. With stability predicted in the avalanche forecast (ie a "low" rating), we set out for long, steep, unrelenting north-facing chutes ... that I've eyed for quite some time, just waiting for the right day.

We thought conditions would be good, we had no idea that they would be over-the-top, remember-it-for-life amazing. We're talking thigh deep bliss! It was so good that we blew off the "pressing" responsibilities we had intended to attend to that day to skin back up the mountain for a few more turns of heaven. At the end of the day we had no regrets.


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Tuesday, November 23, 2010

Heaven in November

Cory and I went skiing in West Mail on Teton Pass Sunday. What unbelievable conditions for November! The powder was fluffy, soft, sweet, light, forgiving, springy and oh so fun! I'm not sure whether Cory and I or Zippy and Oscar had more fun ... we're all powder hounds.




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Sunday, November 07, 2010

99 percent stoked


 (Editor's note: this is the latest installment of my Excursions column, written for the Jackson Hole News&Guide)
 
Face shots or core shots? That was the question running through my head as I unearthed skis and skins, beacon and boots, and probe and shovel.
It was 10 p.m. at night and I was trying to decide if the idea of skiing the pass after this year’s first snowfall was just plain ridiculous, or ridiculously wonderful.
Always the optimist, and one who never says no to a good adventure, I decided to run with the latter.
Plus, I’d already told my friend Martha Williamson that I would meet her at 6:30 a.m. for a pre-work dawn patrol, so I was what one might call committed.
I found fresh triple-A batteries in the bottom of my gear bin, loaded them into my beacon, flipped it on and felt a surge of excitement as the screen displayed 99 percent — like my beacon batteries I was 99 percent stoked to start a new ski season.
Miraculously, from ski fever, I woke up the next morning 10 minutes before my alarm went off at 6 a.m., and practically jumped out of bed.
Zippy, my pup, and I rendezvoused with Martha. In my 15-year-old sturdy, sometimes surly Subaru, we chugged up Teton Pass, headed for Edelweiss bowl on the south side of the pass.
To our surprise, we found a jam packed parking lot at the top of the pass, and just barely managed to squeeze in. As we got ourselves ready — taking longer than normal, rusty from the summer months — Zippy wriggled with excitement.
“C’mon guys, what’s taking you so long, don’t you know it’s ski season again ...” he urged with every inch of his body, nose to tail.
Finally, we were off, skinning for a short distance, before making the first drop of the season — over a patch of grass into an oh-so-buttery glade. Knee-deep powder made for hero turns.
As I floated on the delightfully soft snow, dropping my knees into tele turns, every inch of my body said, “hell yeah, this is what life is all about.”
Martha put that feeling into words, when on the next skin up, to the top of Edelweiss, she said, “Work is always better after a morning of skiing.”
Dense fog and crystal clear sunshine danced with each other on top of Edelweiss. Zippy floundered in the deep powder, gaining little traction in his lanky legs, but nonetheless grinning floppy ear to floppy ear. Martha and I spied our lines, and one at a time, jumped into the bowl below, literally shouting for joy at the apex of each turn.
We took a bet and won — we got a few face shots and not a single core shot, or for that matter even scratch to the bases of our skis.
Down the gut of Edelweiss, we cruised, our legs amazingly strong despite the summer ski lull.
We almost got away with a remarkably fall-less, flawless first day on skis ...
But while setting a skin track back to the parking lot, my skins totally detached from my skis. Snow had gummed onto the bottom of them, rendering what little stickiness they had left useless.
I tried twice to reattach my skins to my skis, with the idea of proceeding gingerly, before I conceded to boot packing.
Thankfully, we only had a couple hundred feet more to climb ... because boot packing in fresh powder ain’t no easy task. I was panting as loud as Zippy by the time we topped out on an established trail that would take us back to the parking lot.
(Note to self: reapply glue to skins before next outing.)
By 10 a.m. we were back at my car, delighted by our morning.
Not bad for a first day, and not bad for October, we thought in chorus.
A few words of wisdom: while Martha and I avoided core shots, the early season snowpack is extremely variable. Hidden rocks, logs and other obstacles abound, so proceed carefully. Also, backcountry skiing has many hazards, most significantly the hazard of avalanches. If you ride the pass, make sure to take with you the proper equipment and know-how.

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Saturday, October 02, 2010

Not quite steel-toed boots ...

A couple of weekends ago Zippy and I cruised out of town to hike Mount Taylor. When I got to the trail head, I realized, with an ugh, that I had left my shoes at home. Unwilling to return to the hustle and bustle of town, I examined my options and realized I had only one ... make the 10-mile, several thousand foot hike in flip flops ... so that's what I did. Somehow I managed to keep my battle wounds limited to blisters on the balls of my feet.

There may be something to barefoot hiking and running ... certainly a day out in flip flops worked different muscles than I'm used to using.



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Friday, June 04, 2010

Last turns of the season (perhaps) ...

If anything should clue me in to the fact that it just might maybe be time to hang up the skis for a couple of months, this should ....


This is coming down off of Glory last week with Kevin and Karen ... Yes, we chose to forgo hucking the cliff, and took off our skis to hike this section.

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Tuesday, May 11, 2010

Needless to say ...

it's been a good month or two.

From powder in May to hotsprings and bike excursions at the base of the Tetons, I've fallen in love with my new backyard ... and the people who like to play with me in it.

This year the so-called "off season" in Jackson has been anything but "off" ... it's either been dumping buckets of freshies or bluebird skies and 60 degrees.

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Saturday, April 10, 2010

Just can't get enough

The last week has been one of the best ski weeks of my life. It all started with Grand Targhee last Friday (a full week ago) when knee-deep powder and bluebird skies coupled up to bring heaven here to earth.

Then on Saturday I taught my last day of ski school at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. Snow absolutely hammered the mountain that day ... and my supervisors pulled through to give us Rough Rider instructors a chance to do a Gondola lap while the kids were in an "extended story time." That lap proved to be one of the most amazing runs of my life ... I felt totally free and totally on fire ... the turns seem to flow in perfect rhythm right out of the core of my being. The face shots frosted the cake.

On Sunday my friends descended on the mountain ... it was the last day it was open to the public and yet another storm cycle made for buttery conditions. Karen, Martha and I adventured together ... dropping into chutes none of us had explored before ... specifically Tower 3 and the Mushroom Chutes ... divine.

That night I partied like a rock star, and still managed to wake up and make the first tram for employee-only ski day on Monday. I laid the very first tracks into Expert Chutes (Ooops ... couldn't resist the chance to brag), and then headed back to Tower 3 and Mushroom Chutes ... where a fresh coat of snow made conditions even better than the day before. By this time I had found a groove, and my confidence level was sky high. I looked at my friend Jim, who's a pretty darn awesome skier, and asked if he'd go with me to the famous - or perhaps infamous - Corbet's Couloir. He agreed. For those that don't know, Corbet's gets it's rap because it requires a wicked drop in ... and can be seen from all over the mountain ... the tram passes right above it. On Monday there was a pretty substantial - and uncovered rock face - that required a fairly precarious maneuver. Jim went first and flawlessly showed me how to do it. Mimicking his every move, I took a huge deep breath and dropped ... clatter, clatter, clatter ... I pulled off the move, but the DIN setting on my skis was set too low and they popped right off. I cartwheeled down the mountain a couple of times before self arresting. A super nice fellow who dropped into Corbet's after me, picked up my skis, saving me a long hike. The ski down the rest of the couloir can't fully be put into words ... waist deep, cottony soft ... basically a perfect way to end the season at the Village (the name locals use for Jackson Hole Mountain Resort).

When Tuesday rolled around I decided it was time for a break, but by Wednesday I couldn't contain the need for floating free. Josh, a new friend who recently moved to the area, and I headed up to Teton Pass for a sunset ski. We hiked up Glory and dropped into Coal Creek ... taking advantage of good snow in the north facing trees. We got back to our car at 8:20 p.m., just as the last rays from the day were falling away to the west.

Inspired, I called Karen that night, and we met at 6:15 a.m. the following morning (Thursday) to do the exact same run. The sunrise proved to be just as beautiful as the sunset, and the snow just as nice. I kept thinking to myself ... "Wow, I can't believe I live in a place where I can go for a sunset backcountry ski and then wake up the following morning for a dawn patrol."

Not surprisingly, when Friday rolled around and the opportunity popped up to tail Marc on an outing to one of his favorite (and somewhat secret) backcountry runs, I jumped. The limitless blue skis and gentle breeze made the day ideal, and north facing woods once again proved to contain the goods - plus, like each of the proceeding days, the company was great.

Now as I sit here on Saturday, tapping away at the keyboard, I feel totally content to take a rest day ... "a" being the keyword ... I've already starting planting seeds and scheming up plans to pick up the parade tomorrow.

Amelia and Jim look back as we head up the lift for more face shots at Grand Targhee.
Amelia and me on the lift at Targhee.
Jim, Amelia and I ... what a spectacular day to ski freshies.
Josh hikes up the final pitch of Glory.
The sunset view while hiking up Glory to ski into Coal Creek.
Frosted prayer flags on top of Glory.
Zippy says, "Mom, this place ain't too shabby."
Karen gets ready for an early morning descent.
Karen salutes the endless skis and horizon.
Time to pull off the skins and adjust the pack ...
Marc adjusts his sunglasses while taking in the view.

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Thursday, March 11, 2010

Grins, smiles and shouts of sheer joy

A few more photos of Monday's dawn patrol courtesy of Karen ...




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Monday, March 08, 2010

Dawn patrol

This morning was phenomenal is every way ... I couldn't stop thinking, "there's no place I'd rather be, and nothing else I'd rather be doing." Karen, Kevin, Galen and I headed out to East Mail for a dawn patrol backcountry ski. We were on the road by 6 a.m., skinning up by 7 a.m., skiing by 9 a.m. and home by 11 a.m. Despite the ubiquitously crusty conditions, we somehow managed to find a sweet stash of powder on a beautiful north facing pitch. We decided to name to run "Zippy's" because he led the charge ... bouncing gleefully down the slope. To the rest of our credit, our smiles were nearly as big as Zippy's when we took our turn to descend.

Skinning up bright and early in the morning.
Checking out a possible ski route before begin the ascent up the peak.
As always ... a great view from top and a happy crew.
Galen soars down the slope.
Kevin glides through knee deep powder.
Karen swoops in for a landing after a skiing a steep pitch.
Galen pulls to a stop.

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